Chadwick Boseman as James brown in Get On Up Photograph: Allstar/UNIVERSAL PICTURES/Sportsphoto Ltd./Allstar

1. The quiff James Brown, 1964, New York Photograph: Michael Ochs Archives

The afro became a symbol of his association with civil rights but the quiff looked amazing, too. Bruno Mars, not to mention Janelle Monae, are channeling Brown’s excellent quiff work more than 50 years on. Coiffed and full, rising from the centre of his forehead, it was truly a thing of beauty. No wonder, as Arbus’ picture attests, it needed a hairdresser on hand at all times.

Brown went on to wear full-on jumpsuits, tracksuits, capes and flares but as befitting a man raised in Georgia, he started with the motifs of a Southern gentleman. The tie or bow tie is part of that look but works best when slightly skewed and pulled to the side after a trademark performance of blood, sweat and tears.

Brown had performance uniform during this period, which the slightly short, boxy jacket was part of. Sometimes double-breasted, sometimes brocade, and always worn with a bright white shirt, the effect is razor sharp, all the better to take off and fling on the stage.

A James Brown performance is nothing without the godfather of soul dropping to his knees during Please, Please, Please. Who knows how he did this in trousers so tight they make American Apparel’s Disco Pantslook like Boyfriend jeans? Ours not to reason why. Marvel instead.

Another element of the Southern gentleman styling – smart shoes finish the look. They also, with thin slidy soles, work as a prop for dancing, as seen when Brown taught a bunch of teenagers to dance in 1962 or attempting to do the same with Tonight Show host Johnny Carson in 1967.